In the past, sending old clothes to the Third World was considered a charitable act, but today it has become an environmental and social issue. France, Sweden, and Denmark have proposed banning the export of second-hand clothes from the EU, which was discussed at the EU Environment Council on March 25. Organizations dealing with second-hand clothes in Africa argue that the ban will affect the livelihoods of millions of people and are lobbying EU countries not to support the proposal.

 

With the rise of fast fashion, the pace of clothing disposal has accelerated. But where do the discarded garments go? According to analysis by the European Environment Agency (EEA) in 2023, EU exports of textile waste doubled over 20 years, reaching 1.7 million tons in 2019, with 46% sold to Africa and 41% to Asia. Some second-hand clothes can be resold, some are downgraded to industrial rags or filling materials, and some end up in open-air landfills or are simply discarded.

 

On the 25th of March, the EU Environment Council convened, where France, Denmark, and Sweden jointly proposed to regulate the export and import of second-hand clothes under the Basel Convention and requested prior consent from the importing country before export. The Basel Convention is a United Nations treaty that regulates the transboundary movement of hazardous waste, specifically addressing the transfer of waste from developed countries to the Third World.

 

The French Ministry of the Environment stated that "Africa should not be the dumping ground for fast fashion." According to Reuters, Soren Jacobsen, the Deputy Permanent Representative of Denmark to the EU, pointed out during the meeting that exporting textile waste to developing countries would harm the local environment, society, and health, and the EU should put an end to this practice. The French representative also stated that the ban would help strengthen the EU's own textile recycling system.

 

Swedish Climate Minister Romina Pourmokhtari visited Kenya at the end of February to attend the United Nations Environment Assembly. During her visit, she specifically went to the banks of the Nairobi River to learn about the issue of discarded second-hand clothes. The local environmental organization "Clean Up Kenya," which accompanied the visit, pointed out that Kenya imports 200,000 tons of second-hand clothes annually, which often arrive soiled, damaged, and in the wrong sizes, requiring modification before they can be worn, resulting in a lot of waste. However, the local waste management system is inadequate, and the Nairobi River has become a dumping ground, which is what the minister witnessed during her visit.

 

The EU's proposal has caused panic among importers of second-hand clothes, who are actively meeting with representatives from other EU countries in hopes of blocking the proposal. According to Reuters, Teresia Wairimu Njenga, the chairperson of the Kenya Association of Second Hand Clothes Dealers, pointed out that at least two million people in Kenya depend on the resale industry of second-hand clothes, and the proposal will impact local livelihoods.

 

He strongly emphasizes that not all second-hand clothes are garbage. According to a survey conducted by the alliance in Nairobi in 2023, only 1% to 2% of old clothes become waste.

 

The CEO of the Changing Markets Foundation immediately countered on LinkedIn, urging everyone to see through the lobbyists' intentions and verify the data. The Changing Markets Foundation also conducted a survey on the issue of second-hand clothes in 2023, and the report indicated that 20% to 50% of second-hand clothes imported to Africa end up as waste, only suitable for landfill or incineration. The EU exports up to 37 million pieces of second-hand clothes to Kenya every year, and many of these clothes are too old or dirty to be sold.

 

The second-hand clothing industry brings employment opportunities but also hampers the development of local brands. Last year, the Kenyan President called for military and police uniforms and shoes to be locally manufactured and handed over to young people to produce. The local fashion and textile industry sees this as a great opportunity to establish a "Made in Kenya" market.

 

Clean Up Kenya, a local environmental organization, admits that millions of Africans rely on the second-hand clothing industry for their livelihoods, and addressing this issue should start with producer responsibility. Although France's proposal directly targets exports, they still support it, hoping to drive discussions on second-hand clothing and ultimately find solutions beneficial to the planet.

References:

*REUTERS（2024.3.14)，France proposes EU ban on exports of used clothes

*REUTERS（2024.3.26），Kenya's second-hand clothes traders lobby against EU export restrictions

*DW（2023.10.23），Kenya: President Ruto pushes for locally-made clothing

*European Environment Agency（2023.2.27），EU exports of used textiles in Europe’s circular economy

*Changing markets foundation（2023.7.5），Waste Framework Directive a missed opportunity for textile recycling, but a glimmer of hope for reducing clothing dumped on the Global South

*Clean Up Kenya（2024.3.19)，France, Sweden, and Denmark Propose Ban on EU Second-Hand Clothing Exports

*Clean Up Kenya（2024.3.2)，Sweden’s Minister for Environment and Climate Change visits ‘Trashion’ Ground Zero

*Clean Up Kenya（2023.11.28)，Mitumba Association of Kenya denies Second Hand Clothing imported into Kenya has any Environmental Impact

Source:
Environmental Information Center